vote up. ), More belayer fatigue in some circumstances. With metal casing, super lightweight (8 ounces) and the ability to secure anywhere from an 8.9mm to 11mm rope, makes this heavy-duty durable, and ready for multiple uses. Petzl GriGri + Black Diamond ATC Guide. Contact Info. Again, there are major limitations with this data, but it certainly suggests that Grigri’s are much safer than ATC’s. By device, that equates to an accident rate of 0.8 for tubular devices and 0.36 for Grigris. He appreciates all styles of climbing and enjoys skiing and running on the side. The cam-assisted blocking function a. Petzl. Advantages and Benefits of ATC vs ABD when outdoor lead climbing On the other hand, assisted-braking belay devices (ABD) are … It is a safe way for the leader to bring up the second. Especially when climbing outside, some variables are beyond control. Ashima Shiraishi was once dropped this way. As is often the case, the answer is…it depends. When rapping a fixed line or routesetting, for instance, GriGris can provide a convenient way to pause your progress while reducing risk and fatigue. The GriGri, released in 1991 and named after an African good luck charm, was a revolutionary moment — a belay device with a cam that would actively lock during a fall. The GriGri 2 is an improvement on the original in this regard, but for alpinists and climbers who prefer a light rack, the ATC still wins out. The GriGri is now a household name among climbers, and it’s the second half of our test. 5 5 out of 5 stars from 2 reviews 5 2. Which one should I get first? ), Backpacking Gear List Spreadsheet (w/ Weight Calculator), Other specific uses (routesetting, simulclimbing, etc. Contact Info. Group Top-Roping. Wed, 25 Jun 2014 17:26:44 GMT Hello MOJA! The cam-assisted blocking function makes belaying more convenient when a climber is working a route or when catching a fall. sbakerclimbs. Here, we review and recommend the best … The ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso have quite a bit more friction than the GriGris, but even worse is the Edelrid Mega and Giga Jul, and worse still is the Mammut Smart 2.0. The GriGri + — Furnace Industries. One of my buddies uses a Trango Cinch (spelling?) AW: Smart vs. GriGri (2) … This will allow you to use your weight to release the belay device.You could also stand in the sling to release the belay device, though it's often easier to control when clipped to your harness.You are now able to lower the climber in a controlled manner. $159.95 at Moosejaw. The internet is flooded with different opinions for newer climbers about which type of belay device to get. These features are mostly useful for guides, beginner users, or those who work with inexperienced climbers often. 5 5 out of 5 stars from 37 reviews 5 37. Email: email@example.com Phone: +1 408 996 1010 Fax: +1 408 996 1010 Mammut Smart 2.0 Belay Device. Guiding Multi-pitch Ice. What you’re paying for when you buy a GriGri is assisted braking, that is, the ability to lock down on the rope without constant tension from the belayer. ATC-Alpine Guide Compare A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. It works similarly to a Black Diamond ATC Guide or a Petzl Reverso—one beaner clips into the anchor and another beaner clips into the rope. WarningNever weight the belay carabiner as shown.This will disengage the device and cause the climber to fall. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars from 35 reviews 5 35. Competently used, there are few things the ATC cannot do. Bei richtiger Anwendung ist das GriGri ein sehr gutes und universelles Sicherungsgerät. The weight savings are icing on the cake. Pros? Here are the conclusions. I repeat: there is no device on the market that will compensate for bad habits or sloppy belaying. The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak. You may see people using a waist belay in winter conditions or on less steep ground, perhaps when scrambling, but when on class 5 ground, you should be using a belay device. I was unsure if this was truth or urban legend, so I set out to give it a test. - Trad: Never a Grigri to lead belay, but to belay a second it is OK (someone noted above that only an ATC-type device like a Guide or Reverso would lock on a … 'How To Belay In Guide Mode' is part of the book - Trad Climbing Basics. GriGri vs. ATC for First Belay Device. sbakerclimbs. Not only is it safer, an important point, but it self-feeds, and can also be used to lead (which I assume you're not doing, as it would be a very foolish thing to do with the auto-blocker). It will likely be a personal preference whether you prefer one model over the other. Self-braking belay devices have an internal mechanism that will stop on the ropes during a fall. Petzl GriGri Review | GearLab . If you need to go completely hands-free while belaying in guide mode, you can tie-off the device.Simply form a loop in the brake strand and clip it to the rope. Wed, 25 Jun 2014 20:09:46 GMT. 304 London NY 10016. Many climbers dislike the GriGri precisely because it can lull a belayer into a false sense of security. Which is better...the Petzl GRIGRI + or the Petzl GRIGRI 2? Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. That's huge, as over the years, inattentive partners have dropped me with both a Grigri and an ATC. Because of the camming mechanism, the GriGri also helps mitigate the risk of a belayer somehow losing grip on the brake strand. If you are on the strictest of budgets then the ATC XP Package is the best belay device for beginners without cash to splash. Using a Grigri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices because the Grigri gives a more static catch with little to no rope slippage. However, the Pilot also resembles a mini version of Mammut Smart Alpine (for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm). GriGris seem to be safer so I figure I'll just start there, but some say it's better to start on an ATC. Use the information contained in this website at your own risk, and do not depend on the information contained in this website for personal safety or for determining whether to attempt any activity described herein. The first of these is safety. The Petzl Grigri 2 Belay is a top pick of ours due to its construction. Aperture-style e.g. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. You can check out his adventures on. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. If yours does, you can clip a sling to it with a carabiner). ), GriGris are often worth the investment. Black Diamond Unisex – Erwachsene ATC-Guide, Schwarz, one Size Mehrere Seilreibungsmodi zum Sichern und Abseilen. ATC belay devices are the most versatile, as they are suitable for any type of rope climbing and can also be used for rappelling. Materialaussparungen im Gerätekörper für geringeres Gewicht. Weight: 80gRope Sizes: 8.1-11mmSafety Features: Braking teeth. Best Situations to Use this Method- When it is unlikely that you will need to lower the climber (e.g: climbing an easy slab route)- When climbing as a team of three. Mir ist es jetzt schon drei mal passiert das sich das Kabel vom Jul im Verschlu Press enter for more information. I know climbers who use both successfully. And finally, ATCs retain a significant weight advantage over the GriGri. Unlike a more complex device, like the extremely popular GriGri from Petzl, the geometry of this tubular design enables you to catch your climber without relying on any moving parts. Guide plate. Willis is the rare local who was actually born in Boulder, Colorado, and he has been climbing mountains since he was small. Designed for all users, the GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted blocking for belaying both in the gym and at the crag. When you’re hangdogging up and down your project because you swear your new beta will work, your belayer will thank you. Petzl GriGri + Petzl Reverso 4. or. It should be mentioned that the GriGri creates other possible risks — feeding slack to a leader sometimes requires a gentle push on the camming mechanism, and if the thumb is left in place, the device will not lock. It's better if the next leader removes the Guide Mode setup so the belayer can keep both hands for belaying. DO NOT participate in these activities unless you are an expert, have sought or obtained qualified professional instruction or guidance, are knowledgeable about the risks involved, and are willing to assume personal responsibility for all risks associated with these activities. Die 4 Besten Sicherungsgeräte. The activities described on 99boulders.com carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. He loves cats, green tea, and endurance climbs. In 2010, a climber leaned back at the top of a climb when his belayer was not providing a brake. Plus, the new Petzl GriGri we review here is pretty much the same weight as the GriGri 2 and tips the scales at just an ounce lighter than the GriGri+. You can set up guide mode as shown, with one rope or two. Wed, 25 Jun 2014 17:26:44 GMT Hello MOJA! For the ATC, your choice is fairly straightforward. The ATC is like your favorite pair of jeans: it’s not always flashy, and there are occasionally better options, but it will never let you down. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. The GriGri allowed only about an inch and a half of rope slippage, while the ATC allowed more than a foot. 304 London NY 10016. The numbers tell us that 56% of belayers use an ATC and are responsible for 45% of accidents, as compared with 14% of belayers using a Grigri and are responsible for 5% of accidents. Petzl Grigri Belay Device. Petzl Grigri + Belay Device. Group Top-Roping. This works, but defeats the purpose of the assisted-braking feature in the event of a fall while clipping. Points: 25 Looking for any thoughts, opinions, suggestions, or other on the use of a GriGri over guide or vise versa? For most circumstances, the answer is probably no. To do this, put the second on belay as normal with another belay device, then remove the Guide Mode setup. Given the rope slippage, an ATC will give a softer catch, but it requires an attentive and competent belay. The Mega Jul (for ropes 7.8-11mm) is the closest in shape to the Pilot. Key features. We currently use a Black Diamond ATC Guide, so we are comfortable with tubular devices. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. Some ATC-style belay devices have a 'guide mode' function - they can be set up in a way which locks automatically if a climber falls. Of course, when you compare the GriGri to an ATC, you’ll notice an obvious weight difference, but the current GriGri is actually one of the lighter active-assisted breaking models out there. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. NO BELAY DEVICE WILL MAKE UP FOR BAD BELAY TECHNIQUE. Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. The climber fell 30 feet before the GriGri … 5 5 out of 5 stars from 37 reviews 5 37. I asked my climber which catch had felt softer (I didn’t move my body for either), and he confirmed that the fall on the ATC felt slightly softer. They’re safe, versatile, and powerful. Quick and easy to rap with making laps slightly more efficient. ATC von Black Diamond (Foto: Black Diamond). $29.95 at Black Diamond. For all its many uses, the GriGri cannot accommodate more than one strand of rope. Black diamond camalot x4 offset which is 25% lighter than the reverso 3. the petzl reverso 4 has v-shaped friction definitely not bomber like the old atc belay device friction test black diamond atc guide 8.6 dmm v-twin belay device 8.5 petzl reverso 3 8.5 dmm bug 8.2 black diamond atc вђ¦ Do not use this method for lead belaying. Petzl GriGri + Black Diamond ATC Guide. Any opinions? I hooked up both devices one after the other, had a partner climb to the same point on an overhanging sport climb, and caught a fall on both. The climber fell 30 feet before the GriGri arrested his fall. 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